【World of Affairs】 Reading the "City Retention Code" Through "Pig's Trotter Rice"

(Original Title: [The Many Faces of Society] From “Pig Trotter Rice” to the “City Retention Code”)

Li Yujia

Recently, at the opening ceremony of the spring recruitment fair “A Million Talents Gather in Southern Guangdong,” the speech by Huang Guanhua, a Ph.D. from the University of Science and Technology of China who entered Shenzhen Tencent through this fair last year, became popular. When asked why he chose to work in Shenzhen and the Greater Bay Area, he said because here “dare to innovate, have warmth, and good development.” He also emphasized, “As a northerner, I was worried about the taste being unsuitable, but Guangdong cuisine blends north and south, with diverse flavors. The famous pig trotter rice, just 20 yuan downstairs, big bowl and delicious, makes working hard feel even more worthwhile.”

This is not just a story about food but also a signal about urban governance philosophy, talent ecosystem reconstruction, and a rethinking of livable cities. Pig trotter rice originates from Jieyang in eastern Guangdong, with Longjiang’s version being the most famous. It is found on streets and alleys across Guangzhou and Shenzhen, especially in old districts and urban villages, and can be considered a “city dish” of Guangzhou and Shenzhen. For many white-collar workers, 20 yuan is just the cost of a cup of coffee. Pig trotter rice is not only calorie-rich in meat and rice but also comes with a variety of side dishes. For young people with high physical and mental energy consumption, it quickly replenishes energy and provides balanced nutrition. A colleague from Jieyang said that pig trotter rice is less common in Jieyang and not as famous as Longjiang’s version, but its popularity in Shenzhen has always been high. Data from Tianyancha shows that as of 2024, there are 4,384 pig trotter rice businesses in Shenzhen, accounting for 21.6% of the national total, with 456 longstanding shops over ten years old. This indicates Shenzhen, a first-tier city, has good inclusiveness, especially in supporting grassroots workers and young people.

This “support” capability, which remains dignified, shows that even in first-tier cities, strong supply chains help stabilize prices and ensure basic livelihoods, reflecting a sense of security and certainty in the city. When I arrived in Guangzhou 20 years ago, I often visited various pig trotter rice fast-food shops. From ordering to serving, it only took 1 to 2 minutes. This efficiency was thanks to small shops starting early at 7 a.m. to buy ingredients, clean pig trotters, and prepare braised water, ensuring freshness and efficiency throughout the day.

This warm supply in a fast-paced, non-prepared environment perfectly matches Shenzhen’s high-intensity “time is money” mode, embodying the city’s pursuit of “high efficiency, low cost, and dignity.” Meanwhile, street-side small businesses carry human warmth and a lively atmosphere. A steaming bowl of braised meat, a warm greeting—these quickly ease work fatigue, something that fast food in commercial complexes cannot replace. Likewise, urban villages and old neighborhoods in Guangzhou and Shenzhen are irreplaceable by high-rise buildings.

Today, many third-party organizations assess livability and employment cities based on average wages, top-tier hospitals, subway mileage, green space ratio, and parks. While these are important, the high cost of settling in big cities—rent, transportation, socializing, daily life, and children’s education—makes it difficult. During economic transformation, young people entering the workforce face intense competition. High costs combined with low initial wages and high pressure create understandable anxiety.

Therefore, for various talents, most have grown up during rapid urbanization, familiar with the city’s glamorous exterior and extensive public facilities. After intense student careers, they enter society and need basic life security and a warm micro-experience. They pay more attention to non-standard, accessible small shops that offer warmth and human touch, which directly influence their happiness. If city leaders focus solely on glamorous skyscraper economies and shut down these small shops, they cut off their “lifelines.”

Recently, I have been involved in many urban housing development plans, mainly focusing on how much affordable housing and commercial mix to supply in the next five years. From this, I realize that planning should be open and demand-driven—asking residents what they need, visiting urban villages, old neighborhoods, industrial parks, and university dormitories. It’s important to ask how much space should be reserved for supporting facilities like affordable restaurants, supermarkets, community canteens, and night markets.

The essence of “Pig Trotter Rice Retains People” is to start from human nature, allowing cities to use minimal costs to give strivers the greatest dignity and sincere retention measures. Policy-making should shift from a “manager’s perspective” to a “user’s perspective,” listening to and responding to citizens’ inner voices. While recent discussions on livable cities emphasize warmth, there is also a need for deeper, more granular approaches—especially small and beautiful aspects of people’s livelihoods. This is a plan that carries the aroma of earth, steams with warmth, and reflects the people’s joys and sorrows.

This column only represents the author’s personal views.